Car-Topping 101: Safely Transporting Your Kayak or Canoe
- Adam Rosenbaum
- 7 days ago
- 4 min read
Whether you're heading out for a day paddle at Comox Lake or hitting the highway for a trip to the wild west coast, knowing how to safely transport your kayak or canoe is an essential skill for every paddler. At Comox Valley Kayaks & Canoes, we’re often asked about the best practices for car-topping boats—and we’re here to help you do it right.
Start with the Right Gear
To transport your boat safely, you’ll need:
A solid roof rack system that’s compatible with your vehicle (ask us if you're unsure)
Straps (cam straps are ideal—no ratchets!)
Foam blocks or cradle-style supports (especially for kayaks)
Bow and stern lines
Optional: kayak stackers or J-cradles
If you're unsure what system suits your car or boat best, come by the shop—we're happy to help set you up.
Kayaks: On Edge is Best
Here’s a pro tip not everyone knows: kayaks are strongest when transported on their sides. This position—on edge—is ideal because it reduces pressure on the hull and better distributes the weight. Most roof rack accessories, like J-cradles or stackers, are designed with this in mind. Plus, transporting on edge often frees up more space if you're carrying more than one boat.
Avoid strapping your kayak hull-down directly onto crossbars unless absolutely necessary. Over time, this can cause oil canning (denting or warping), especially with plastic boats in warm weather.
Recommended product:
With multiple settings, the JayLow allows you to carry one boat in J-Cradle position, two boats in vertical position plus folds down when not in use.
Canoes: Face Down and Balanced
Canoes, on the other hand, are best transported with the open side facing down and centered on padded crossbars. Ensure even contact with both bars and secure with cam straps over the hull. Just like kayaks, canoes benefit from added bow and stern lines—more on that below.
Recommended product:
With cut outs on both the top and bottom, these blocks slot on to your cross bars on one side and hold the gunnels of your canoe with the other. Plus, they have a sticky non-slip coating on the bottom to ensure they don't slide along the cross bars.
Strap It Down Right
When securing your boat, tighten the cam straps snugly but not excessively—you want the boat secure, not crushed. Loop the straps around the cross bars and tie off any loose ends to prevent flapping.
Recommended Product:
Sewn nylon webbing with cam and rubber backing. Made locally by shop owner Don Lockwood.
Bow and Stern Lines: Non-Negotiable at Highway Speeds
We can’t stress this enough: when driving at highway speeds, always use bow and stern tie-downs. These extra lines prevent front-to-back movement, reduce wind-induced lift, and provide a crucial backup in case something fails. Use hood loops or tow hooks if your vehicle doesn’t have obvious tie-down points.
This small step adds a huge layer of safety—for both your boat and everyone else on the road.
Recommended Product:
Hood Anchors create a secure attachment point at your hatch, trunk or hood for bow and stern tie downs.
Loading Solo? Use the Slide-Up Method
Paddling solo? Don’t let loading stop you! Here's a simple and safe method we recommend and use ourselves:
The slide-up technique:
Lay a foam pad, towel, or beach blanket over the rear section of your vehicle’s roof or back window.
Lift the bow of the kayak and place it gently on the padded surface.
With the bow secure, move to the stern and slide the kayak forward onto your roof rack or cradles.
Once in place, remove the padding and strap the boat down as usual.
Why we love this method:
It protects your vehicle and your boat
It minimizes the amount of lifting required
It works well with most vehicle heights and rack types
We carry foam blocks and kayak loader accessories—just ask us for help finding the best fit for your vehicle.
Assisted Lift Systems: Make Loading Easier Than Ever
If lifting your kayak onto the roof feels like a stretch—literally—assisted lift systems might be your new best friend. These premium solutions reduce the strain of roof loading and are especially helpful for paddlers with mobility issues, taller vehicles, or heavier boats.
Popular options we recommend:
Thule Hullavator Pro: A hydraulic-assisted lift system that lowers your kayak down to waist height beside your vehicle. Load, strap, and then effortlessly lift it into place with minimal effort. Great for solo paddlers or those with limited overhead reach.
Yakima ShowDown: A side-loading, manually assisted system that supports your boat’s weight as you lift and slide it up onto your rack. Lightweight and user-friendly, it’s a fantastic option for SUPs and kayaks alike.
These systems aren’t universal and may require compatible crossbars and sufficient roof clearance. If you're considering investing in one, drop by the shop—we’ll walk you through the pros, cons, and fit requirements for your specific setup.
Final Tips Before You Roll
Double-check all straps and lines before you drive off
Stop and re-check after 15–30 minutes of driving
Be mindful of your vehicle’s new height—watch for low clearances!
Need Help or Gear Advice?
Our team at Comox Valley Kayaks & Canoes has plenty of experience helping paddlers outfit their vehicles. Whether you're looking for racks, cradles, or just some friendly advice, swing by the shop—we’re always happy to help you get your boat to the water safely.
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